The Art of Adornment
An Inside look at Paula Crevoshay
The national jewelry designer uses light, color and a woman’s features to craft ideal pieces of jewelry.
She’s known as the “Queen of Color.” Her eyes are wired to discern the individual hues that create an overall palette of a woman’s features. And, she knows how to make those colors pop.
National jewelry designer Paula Crevoshay is renowned for her ability to illuminate natural beauty. Her experience, including 20 years in fine art and 33 years in jewelry, has allowed her to reach a new level of expertise in her field. Her pieces are more works of art than products, specifically designed to enhance the wearer. “It’s optimum beauty based on very natural beauty before me,” Crevoshay explains.
The formula is deceivingly simple: color, light and proportion working in unison. Knowing how to combine the elements is the tricky part. “It’s where science and art are coming together,” she says, referring to a process that, after years of experience, has become second nature. Crevoshay works as much on intuitive feel as scientific principal – a true artist in her craft.
Crevoshay’s trained eye allows her to pinpoint specific physical characteristics and then use jewelry as natural enhancements. Much like dressing for a certain body type, jewelry allows the wearer to visually alter her appearance while communicating a sense of personal style. “Adornment is self-expression and letting people know who you truly are on the inside,” Crevoshay emphasizes. The wearer’s responsibility is to know why she wants to wear the jewels, and what she is trying to say. Crevoshay then helps turn this vision into reality.
Each piece, whether an individual commission or part of a collection, expresses Crevoshay’s devotion to her work. Influenced by both her art career and several years spent in India, she has mastered the use of both light and color. They have become her trademark. Her pieces, which are carried exclusively at Provident Jewelry in Jupiter, are hand crafted in 18 karats using techniques that have been passed down for generations. A great deal of care goes into all aspects – choosing the stone, determining the composition and the actual craftsmanship.
Quality of that caliber never goes out of style.
A how-to guide: Wearing jewelry for your body type
Whether in architecture or art, fashion or jewelry, the laws of proportional relationships apply.
Crevoshay explains how we should wear jewelry to suit our colors, features and body types.
jewelry and proportion
Since Renaissance times artists and craftsmen have referred to “The Golden Mean.” This rule dictates balance, or in our case, the proportions of the human body. And these ratios prove advantageous when choosing the appropriate piece of jewelry. Here are a few simple rules to consider:
For the jawbone and cheekbones:
The curve and proportion of the jawbone to the face indicates the ideal length for drop earrings.
The shape of the face can be accentuated by choosing earrings that are either complementary or opposite in shape.
Using an earring with a similar line as the angle of the cheekbones gives an uplifting effect.
For the length of the neck:
Earrings that reach the shoulder should touch a millimeter above the shoulder line.
Choose a necklace long enough to add length to the neck while also considering the neckline of the shirt.
Add one or two inches to necklaces to minimize the effects of aging.
For hands and fingers:
The length of the fingers, versus the length of the palm, determines the proportions of the ring size to hand. This takes into consideration thickness of the band, size of the stone, and overall weight of the piece.
The inner digit of the ring-bearing finger dictates the ideal size of a ring, keeping comfort in mind as well.
Use these tips to find your ideal proportions:
Pay attention to your eyes. The color and shape will help you determine which earrings will work best for you.
Experiment with length, size and shape. It’s the same as holding up different lengths of skirts to see how they work with your legs and torso. Hold up different jewelry
pieces and see how various lengths, sizes and shapes affect your body.
Remember to step back. Don’t get lost in the details of a single piece. It’s the bigger
picture you are striving for, so step back and take in your whole reflection in a mirror.
the theory of color
Understanding how colors interact helps to create the best look.
Color theory can be broken down into three main categories: the color wheel, color harmony and context. Artists and designers spend years mastering the relationships between these concepts. Evidence of the power of color can be seen in everything from expressionist paintings to fashion runways to interior design.
It begins with red, yellow and blue, known as the primary colors of the color wheel. Blending these colors creates orange, green and purple, known as secondary colors. Tertiary colors are a result of blending one primary color with one secondary color – blue-green and yellow-orange for example.
Understanding how these hues interact helps the artist influence the final effect. For example, colors on opposite sides of the color wheel cancel each other out, much like how green is used to minimize redness in skin tones.
Color Theory and Jewelry:
Look at the dominant hue in the skin, and then either highlight or minimize that hue by selecting the appropriate color jewel.
For blonde or copper highlights: Use warm colors, such as oranges, yellows and metallics
For black or dark-colored hair: Try crisp white jewelry to illuminate and create contrast
For gray hair: Try cooler tones, such as blues and silvers
For brunettes: Try secondary colors, such as oranges, greens and purples
Color and the Play of Light:
When you think of color and light, think of a brilliant chandelier. The crystals are cut just so the light can bounce off them in an attractive manner. Jewelry reacts in a similar way.
The way a jewel is cut dictates the play of light. It influences not only the sparkle of a piece, but also how the colors are perceived. A trained eye can use this information when pairing jewelry with the wearer to select the best combinations.
Much like different applications of makeup, jewelry can help brighten a complexion or illuminate tones in the skin, eyes or hair. And while an expert can provide guidance in the beginning, with practice these concepts will become easy to reproduce at home.
elements to consider
Bone structure and facial shape also affect how jewelry looks on a person. Use these helpful tips and guides to pick the best pieces to complement your body type.
The Power of the Stone
Since ancient times, stones have been used to communicate more than their aesthetic values. Many represent different qualities, which may influence which ones are chosen for jewelry.
Here’s a breakdown on the symbolism of gems:
Alexandrite: Inspires creativity, enhances intuition and sparks the imagination.
Amethyst: Calms emotions and influences a quick wit and a clear head.
Diamond: A powerful stone that absorbs strengths and weaknesses of the wearer.
Emerald: Aids fertility and promotes peace, balance and patience.
Opal: Associates with strong emotions, and promotes spontaneity and imagination.
Ruby: Symbolizes vitality, protects from misfortune and promotes love.
Sapphire: Helps with communication, inspiration and intuition.
It’s all in the Neckline
Bone structure guides the ideal selections for earrings and rings, but necklaces depend on another element. The best choice depends not only on the wearer’s anatomy, but also on the neckline of her shirt.
Keep these tips in mind when matching necklines to the perfect necklace:
Boatneck: Pair with long beads
Collared: Pair with a pendant necklace or a choker
V-neck: Pair with a v-shaped pendant
Scoop: Pair with shorter pendants or pieces with volume
Square: Pair with an angular pendant
Crewneck: Pair with a bib or collar necklace
Turtleneck: Pair with a long chain necklace or pendant
Halter: Pair with a slim pendant
Strapless: Pair with a choker necklace or long beads
A Little Dangle
To choose the correct earrings, know your facial shape and how to best accent your features by using these tips:
Round: long tear drops, long ovals, rectangular shapes
Rectangular: small studs, tear drops, hoops, round and oval shapes
Square: long tear drops, large hoops, chandeliers
Oblong: hoops, round shapes
Oval: any style of earring
Triangular: large ovals, small circular shapes
Diamond: studs, small hoops and drop earrings
Inverted triangle: hoops, oval and circular shapes
Heart: tear drops, medium hoops, chandeliers and triangular shapes
look great, feel great
Find your style without focusing on the trends.
Fads come and go. Oversized earrings are in one season, then it’s on to stacked collections of bangle bracelets. But finding your own true style is timeless.
Jewelry plays an important role in our well-being. The concept is, if you look better, you will feel better, and as a result be happier. A signature style that can accompany you throughout the years is more beneficial than following trends that may or may not suit you.
The inner spirit is a large influencing factor, as well. Just as with clothing, certain pieces seem stamped to suit different individuals. Simply put, it just fits. Jewelry follows the same concept.
Individuality guides the appropriate options for size, shape and color. A wearer’s anatomy and hues of the hair, skin and eyes provide the structure of the canvas. The spirit, however, adds the unseen element. A woman with a larger-than-life personality, for example, can handle wearing larger pieces of jewelry, even if she is more petite in stature.
The key component that binds all of these rules is confidence. Feeling great internally will radiate externally. Jewelry is a powerful tool for enhancing self-expression.